
Photo Blog
Free Rider (1 of 2) In 2003 I freed El Cap for the first time on Free Rider over 3 days. I went back a week later to shoot photos with Heinz Zak, and he encouraged me to go for a...
Free Rider (2 of 2) A little bit of history—what is now referred to as the “boulder problem pitch” on Free Rider was always called the Huber pitch when I lived in the Valley. The belay anchor at that time was...

Cosmic Debris (1 of 2) 1993, I drove straight from Maryland to Camp 4 in an Oldsmobile. Over the next 15 years, Yosemite climbing trips became climbing seasons. I lived in Camp 4, in El Cap meadow, at the base of...

Cosmic Debris (2 of 2) 2002: Cosmic Debris ✨ Very handy to have desert crack technique for grinding the slick rattly fingers at the crux. Yosemite, CA 📷 Jimmy Chin

1998. My first trip up the Zodiac with my most badass friends Elaine Lee and Kim Csizmazia. We were near the top of the wall in our portaledges and were faced with the potentially awkward moment of needing to take...

Tales of Power (1 of 3) 2000, Tales of Power. Not sure what’s more beautiful, the route or the name 💫 📷 Heinz Zak

Tales of Power (2 of 3) You rap in. Then you climb Tales, and then Separate Reality to get out. 📷 Heinz Zak

Tales of Power (3 of 3) I’ve always been adamant that the world does not need another photo of someone climbing Separate Reality. And, I’ve always been wrong 😂 📷 Heinz Zak

Outer Limits, 2005 I don’t forget a good hand jam or a good friend, and this was a really nice outing with Winky 🩶 📷 Dean Fidelman Yosemite, CA

I was asked to train Chris Hemsworth on the mental aspect of climbing, by coaching him to climb without a rope over choppy seas in Mallorca. Our episode of Limitless 2 is airing August 15 on Disney Plus--this was fun...

Chouinard-Herbert (1 of 2) My brother and I started climbing at the same time but he was in med school in Missouri, so we didn’t climb together right away. I visited in Tucson when he was in residency there, and he...

Chouinard-Herbert (2 of 2) While I didn’t remember the approach so well, I clearly remembered the crux pitch being stout over a roof. When we got there this time, I suddenly noticed I could place a little piece up in the...
Crimson Cringe, 200? The knobs, the splitter, the undercling to victory, because you sure as heck don’t want to peel off there! In all, a glorious journey ❤️ 📷 Heinz Zak Yosemite, CA
El Cap free in a day, 2003, 1 of 6. For me it was all about conditions and schedule. I started the Free Blast at 5 pm when the sun was off the wall.
El Cap free in a day, 2003, 2 of 6. The Monster offwidth was really nice in the dark, so quiet and cozy 🐰 It’s interesting how when you’re climbing there’s always this instinctive sense of anxiety as evening approaches,...
El Cap free in a day, 2003, 3 of 6. I climbed faster than I’d planned, so I had a few shivering hours of wait on a ledge before first light came, for the Huber pitch.
El Cap free in a day, 2003. 4 of 6. I climbed faster than I’d planned, so I had a few shivering hours of wait on a ledge before first light came, for the Huber pitch. I knew if I...
El Cap free in a day 2003, 5 of 6. Starting up the Monster offwidths on a training run/photo outing.
El Cap free in a day, 2003, 6 of 6. The Monster offwidths on a sunny day, after freeing the route Free Rider once, and training to do it in a single day. All 📷 Heinz Zak
Alien Roof, 2001. What’s better: the Rostrum classic, the Alien, Blind Faith, or the Kauk-Kulator? What, you can’t decide? The real question is how can one chunk of rock have so many 5 star routes ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️? 📷 Heinz Zak The Rostrum, Yosemite
El Cap free in a day, 2003: the enduro dihedral pitch 📷 Heinz Zak

El Cap free in a day, 2003: the enduro dihedral pitch 📷 Heinz Zak