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Moderate Tower Routes and Moab Climbs

• March 2012
• Climb Fly Travel

Hi Steph-
I saw your towers climbing movie at the Mountaineers in Seattle a few weeks ago.
 
We didn’t know it was going to be about Moab.  And were so pleased to see Castleton Tower, The Titan and all my other friends.  Those towers and the red rocks are ole buddies.
 
I have been going to Moab for about 20 years.  It started in college.  I was in Geology club at Ohio State.  Which was really just an excuse to use the free van and gas card to go climbing.  So we tried all kinds of stuff.  Waco Tanks, Yosemite, Devils Tower.  But Moab was the favorite.
 
Now- pretty much every spring I drag some new friend down.  They usually are skeptical.  Live in the desert for a week?  Then when they get there- ahh- they are hooked.  Even when the tent blows away in a wind storm.  I treasure that red dirt and never clean it off my car until all spring until summer is here in Seattle in July.
 
So I am coming again end of April.  And I was wondering what you would recommend to do in Castle Valley or around Moab up to 5.9.  I will do Kor Ingalls on Castelton Tower.  Anything else great and fairly easy?
 
Thanks again for your movie.  Such a treat.
John
Seattle, WA.

Hey, hate to trouble you, but we’re headed for a family trip to Arches/Canyonland next week and just trying to get a little more info on possible climbing. bringing my 15-year-old daughter who climbs 5.9 or so. I can lead hard 11, but won’t with daughter around. Any thoughts on places that are semi-accessible. I know you’re busy, Steph, but just thought I’d take the chance on asking the master. love the blog!
And thanks again,
Michael

Hi John,
Thanks for coming to the show, and we’re all happy you liked A Perfect Circle 🙂

The North Chimney, along with Kor Ingalls, are favorites of mine. You can not go wrong on both of those routes: North Chimney is shady, for when it’s hot and Kor Ingalls is sunny for when it’s cold.

5.9 tower routes are at a premium: I’m also always trying to find those too, to take friends on. If you are willing to go up to 5.10, Jah Man on Sister Superior is a great one.

The Penguins, just at the entrance of Arches, has a great route, also 5.10. Don’t be intimidated by the wide crack at the top, just bring a couple of #4 Camalots, or a #4 and an old 4.5, and you will have no problem.

I’m sure you’ve climbed the Owl in Arches, but I never really get tired of that little tower–it would be fun to do the Penguins and then the Owl while you’re in Arches.

There are several excellent routes on Merrimack Buttress. You need 4WD to get out there, and it’s best to have a small truck (my Ford Ranger does really well, there are a few tight curves in a river bed). There is a beautiful 5.10 route right on the prow.

To get there, you will drive right past the Determination Tower, and there is a 5.10 route called the Window Route on it, which I have not climbed, but have heard is fun.

There’s a very good 3-4 pitch route you can do on the left Tombstone. To summit, you have to climb a harder layback pitch to the notch and then a pretty unpleasant offwidth to the top. But since you rap the route, a lot of people climb the first few pitches which keep you at 5.9 and are really good and just rap below the layback pitch. It’s in the shade until noon.

If you want to climb an arch, there is a slabby 5.9 route on Jug Handle Arch, down Potash Road.

Hi Michael,
Your daughter would love Owl Rock. In the morning, you can go to the Ice Cream Parlor which is down Kane Creek Road. It has morning shade. When the sun comes, you can move to Potash Road to catch the afternoon shade. It’s getting hot quick right now. You could also check out the River Road Dihedrals, which stay mostly shady and are equally roadside.

If she’s okay with exposure and doing more than one pitch, she could really like Ancient Art. It’s about a 20 minute walk, and you can get down from the sidewalk in 2 raps.

Another adventurous feature with easy access is Looking Glass Rock, which is about 20-30 minutes from Moab towards Indian Creek on the right. You can virtually drive to the base, and it’s about 5.6 to climb to the top. There is a free hanging rap to the ground (just one). This could be a really nice afternoon, after climbing at the Ice Cream Parlor in the morning, or a good morning outing finished with pitches at Potash.
It’s getting hot quick, so chase the shade.
Have fun!