PMS and Climbing

Hi Steph,

First, thank you for being available to answer questions from other climbers. Secondly, you are really an inspiration!

I wanted to ask you if yourself or maybe some other female climber that you know, has suffered from PMS and how that has affected their climbing.

I just feel really frustrated, I just dropped off my boyfriend at this beautiful climbing spot. And as much as I wanted to climb, I’m bloated and tired etc. due to really bad pms, so drove home.

Just knowing that I am not alone in this would really help!

Thanks in advance for reading, I appreciate it!
All the best,
Mayra

Hi Mayra,
No, you’re not alone! PMS is just a big pain. Being an athlete who is very in tune with your body and its performance, changes in body chemistry are noticeable and often hard to work with. I remember reading a book once about a hardcore Alaska frontierswoman who was living in a cabin with her mate. Once a month, she would just leave for 2 or 3 days and go out in the backcountry by herself, because she just didn’t want to deal! I often think that’s pure genius. It sounds like you are already on that program… 🙂

Sometimes I notice PMS effects a lot, sometimes not at all, there’s no consistency. However when I do get affected by it, I’ve noticed feeling abnormally cold (not nice when climbing), lacking power when climbing or in the gym, sometimes being irrationally scared on lead, and any combination thereof. I’ve also noticed that if I’m in an extreme situation (for example, freeing El Cap in a day–no joke, talk about bad timing), I’m able to use mind over matter and not be held back by those side effects. Which is pretty interesting, not because the effects of PMS are any less powerful, but because it shows just how much more powerful the mind can be. Unfortunately that doesn’t seem to be something I can do voluntarily, it just happens when I HAVE to rise to the occasion.

Someone also told me an interesting anecdote about PMS after I tore my ACL. Apparently it’s more common for women to tear ligaments when they are fatigued and/or at that phase, because your ligaments actually lose some strength and resilience under those circumstances. And yes, I was both tired and in that window when I first tore my ACL.

Unfortunately I never know when I’m at that phase, because I’m still in denial about the whole thing and think “geez, that was horrible, I hope THAT never happens again” every month. Like I said, sometimes it’s bad, sometimes it’s not, and I bet it’s the same for you, so don’t let it get you down too much 🙂

But I do think that bailing out into the backcountry with your dog once a month is a pretty viable option. Next time I notice this all happening, I just might do that.
Steph


15 responses to “PMS and Climbing”

  1. Clara Clette says:

    Hi Mayry, hi Steph,

    I´ve noticed that sometimes, not allways, my strength is reduced, I have bad headaches which distract me from climbing (especially in dangerous situations) and more often my motivation for climbing in general is a little bit reduced whem I´m PMS. But like Steph sometime I notice a difference and sometimes i don´t.

    Greeting from Germany,

    Clara

  2. Clara Clette says:

    oh, and by the way: great picture for this topic. 🙂

  3. Julie says:

    Hi Mayra,
    Thanks for writing this…you’re definitely not alone! It took me a few months to connect feeling weak and completely wigging out at the smallest feeling of exposure with my time of the month. It affects me pretty strongly and consistently. I’ve learned to just work around it. I used to get down on myself for getting scared. So I plan objectives around it, and make sure I get some moderate exercise during it. Spending time alone helps too.
    -Julie

  4. Anonymous says:

    thanks clara!

  5. Sarahkate says:

    totally have sisters with you…sometimes I am phased and get tired sooner and am more clumsy. I have great friends and we just share. Most of the time thats all thats needed.

    especially as am at the peri menopause, expect anything at any time. You are normal and its lovely that you shared…

    thanks and keep sharing xx SK

  6. Georgina says:

    Echo everything you ladies have said – my main gripe is that I feel super weak during that time which is annoying. However I always feel better for taking the exercise and being social with people. During the ‘grumpy’ times I go off with my dog for a walk or take a bath to relax.

  7. I find that I am much better off pushing myself to get out and get some exercise. I find the symptoms subside considerably when I do this. I found an ayurvedic women’s tea at a local tea store here in Banff that really alleviates the cramping as well. One tip it to avoid coffee during this time as it will make your tummy even more sensitive. Raw chocolate is chock full of magnesium and is highly recommended when you’re PMS-ing as well!

  8. Vanessa F says:

    Thanks for posting this! I’ve actually had some horrible experiences (one in particular) that involved me PMSing and someone actually ditching me on a climb. Talk about men not understanding…..

  9. Hillary says:

    wow! did I NEED to read this. One thing I’ll say: sometimes the day before my flow starts, I’m at my strongest. My mind may not be with me, but my body is rarin’ to go! so, allow for this paradigm shift. Don’t assume it has to be a bad thing. That being said, the fear factor, and the emotional drain that creates is a whole different hurdle. I always let my partners know where I’m at. If it’s a guy, he needs this education, and if he can’t deal with it? Then I feel sorry for him and all the women close to him. Having partner who can help you hold a clear space is helpful. this would also involve finding objectives for the day that are reasonable for where you are at physically and emotionally. when choices are more rigid (like you are in the middle of an expedition or scheduled event) then you just dig deep and deal. remember, like Steph said, your mind is powerful! Tap into all the women who override these feelings to ucceed through obstacles all over the world everyday!

  10. Anonymous says:

    good tips, thanks!

  11. Sarahkate Hemmatpour says:

    Hi Vanessa

    man, that reaction seems uninformed. Agree with talking about PMS and hormones really will help inform. Sometimes I can trip over a leaf just walking, but like Steph and some of the other ladies have said. Ya can flick that focus switch, which I’m sure you do. Just wanted to say that that a bit childish to be dropped like that mate 🙂 You know what you’re doing

    Sarah-Kate xx

  12. […] best of you while climbing? Good advice from Steph Davis (@highsteph) on how to deal with it: http://ht.ly/4iXJw – Excellent analysis of how ice climbing differs from rock in MANY ways by Will Gadd:  […]

  13. ukc.com andyh211 says:

    Ladies, don’t tar all us blokes with the same brush! hope this makes you smile, lots of love from the UK, Andy xxx

    A young Geordie lad moved to London and went to Harrods looking for a job.
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    Our sales people average 20 or 30 sales a day. How much was the sale for?
    “£124,237.64” replied the Geordie.
    The manager choked and exclaimed “£124,237.64, what the hell did you sell him?”
    “Well, forst I selt him a smaal fish hook, then a medium fish hook,
    and then I selt him a new fishing rod.
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    said he didn’t think his Honda Civic would pull it, so I took him doon
    tiv the car sales and I selt him the 4 x 4 Suzuki”.
    The manager, incredulous, said “You mean to tell me….a guy came in
    here to buy a fish hook and you sold him a boat and 4×4?”
    “Ner, nah……he came in here to buy a box of Tampax for his
    ladyfriend and I said ”Well, since ya weekend’s focked, ya might as
    well gan fishin…”

  14. Anonymous says:

    😀 😀

  15. Sarahkate Hemmatpour says:

    good on ya mate 😉

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