Indian Creek Etiquette

Hi Steph,
After a winter of learning to climb indoor cracks (wood, plastic and whatever unearthly material they use at Momentum), I’m anxious to try my hand (and foot) in stone at the Creek.

Although I’m now pretty decent at clambering up human made cracks, I have no delusions that I can/should lead anything in the real world. If I go to IC with an equally non-leader ready friend, would we draw glares if we asked more experienced climbers (i.e. everyone else) to let us jump in on ropes they put up? Or ask them to put up our rope just as they’re ready to clean theirs? We hope to be able to contribute by lending our collection of 2’s and 3’s to cam starved leaders. (My cams currently sit new, shiny and unused on a shelf in my house. Worst comes to worst, I figure I can use them to hang plants in unusual spots.)

If I go by myself, is it reasonable to stand in the parking lot looking forlorn and confused (this comes naturally to me) and ask to join other climbers? Would a weekday or weekend be better? Before, during or after spring break season in late March? (Wanna go now!)

Much obliged for any advice you may have. Please keep up the excellent blog regardless.
–Bruce
Salt Lake, a fellow Maryland (Rockville) -> Utah transplant and desert rat in case that helps win me a response

Hi Bruce,
There are a lot of people down at the Creek right now. There is a new (horrifically unsightly) black asphalt parking lot between Supercrack and Battle of the Bulge. Though at first you may think there is a new strip mall going up between the two buttresses, it was actually installed by the BLM who mysteriously determined that a massive expanse of black asphalt would add to the practicality and aesthetic nature of the muted red landscape of Indian Creek.

There are lots and lots of climbers there every day, as well as lots of moderate routes on both buttresses, and I bet you could easily add on to someone’s group just by showing up at the (horrifically unsightly) parking lot and being friendly.

There is also a new campground called Creek Pasture, several miles down the road past all the climbing, with a sign on the right. A lot of people are camping there this season, as well as at Bridger Jack.

Everyone I have met at Indian Creek is friendly and group oriented, and it’s very easy to meet people and ask to join them. Most people are joining forces to get the ropes up there anyway, and are actually pleased to have their hard work of leading a pitch get full useage and appreciation in the form of happy topropers.

Beer is the single best way to make friends at Indian Creek, and extra jugs of water work really well too.
Have fun, the weather is perfect right now!!!


4 responses to “Indian Creek Etiquette”

  1. Stacey Hughes says:

    I find that Climbers are all that sort of people – – generous, outgoing and friendly!

  2. Carlos Lugo says:

    Not to discredit an awesome post, but I wonder if a rookie gym climber would find the climbers as friendly as, say… well, you!

  3. Rich Gill says:

    in general climbers are friendly to other climbers regardless of their experience or ability so i wouldn’t worry about it fella.
    infact im probably more likely to loan/give spare gear to an inexperienced climber than an experienced one

  4. Bruce says:

    Thanks for the nice post Steph. I climbed at the Creek this past weekend and found that the experienced climbers were indeed friendly and happy to help. Handing out beer and cams didn’t hurt. And FWIW, indoor crack experience provided a great foundation for the far more complex (and fun) real thing.

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