Best 5.10 around Moab?
Hi Steph,
I am visiting the Moab area for the first time until the end of the month. I’m bummed that I barely missed your crack clinic! I was wondering if you could recommend any single climb that I HAVE to do before I leave (for a 5.10 range climber), what would it be?
Thanks,
Katie
Ps, I love seeing pictures of Cajun! Here’s one of my beloved kitty.
Hi Katie,
Thank you for the adorable picture of your kitty 🙂 I’m sorry you missed the October clinic: the April clinic is already full, but I am having another one next October. I’m also holding a women’s only clinic for the first time this May, and will be sure to do more.
The question of a don’t-miss 5.10 route in the desert threw my brain into a neverending flow chart and has been stumping me for the last month or so. I love ALL my kids the best 🙂 But I’m sure you’ll be back, so I have come up with some great routes that you can put on the list…
Supercrack Buttress has some of the best 5.10s anywhere. I think Keyhole Flake is absolutely not to be missed. Also, The Wave is one of best rock climbs ever–but be ready, because it is not a soft 5.10. People often forget about or never even think about Bad Rad Duality, which is way around to the left of the buttress. You do need 2 ropes or a 70 meter, and it is pretty in your face off the ground in the thin corner, but it has to be one of the best routes around. Across the way at Battle of the Bulge, make sure to do Crack Attack (just bring a #4 Camalot size for off the ground).
One of the most enjoyable long 5.10- pitches I’ve climbed is Lady Pillar at the Optimator Wall. This climb is long, varied, aesthetic and pure goodness! And then there’s Cat Man Do at the Cat Wall, just remember the Cat Wall is shut in the spring because of birds.
If you want to climb around Moab, the first 4 pitches of the Corner Route on the Left Tombstone are high quality, adventurous and in a very beautiful setting with almost no approach. You rap the route, so there is no commitment or pressure 🙂 If you’re feeling good and you want to push it a little, you can go up and left for a very great moderate 5.11 splitter pitch on the neighboring wall, or you can add the 5th pitch which is a friendly 5.12- layback pitch to the notch.
Enjoy!
Steph
Thanks for all these suggestions! Love it!
lots of nice short 10s along wall st, flakes of wrath 9+ was the climb that got me hooked on sandstone. Castleton Tower kor ingalls close enough. Jah Man, never did it but wish I had. If its a 9 around Moab, it will satisfy most 5ten climbers.
Thanks for the suggestions of Lady Pillar at the Optimator Wall and Tombstone! I’ll be sure to check those out! Great idea for the women’s climbing clinics too!
Thanks, Steph! I was so excited to see my letter (and Roger the cat) on your blog! My trip to Moab was incredible, and, as I’m sure many women discover, the 5.11 climbs were perfect for my small hands! My favorites that I got on were Scarface and Top Sirloin. I’m sure I will be back to Moab soon, and I always hope I’ll run into you when I’m there!
Katie
we love Roger the cat 🙂 Glad you had a good trip to Moab!