US Bouldering
- August 2014
- Climb
Hey Steph,
My name is Josh, I’m a 22 year old student from The Netherlands. I started indoor bouldering two years ago, and I’ve been hooked ever since.
I’m graduating soon, and I decided to spend my post-graduation-vacation savings on a bouldering trip to the US.As I’ve only ever bouldered indoors, outdoor bouldering is a big mystery to me (route descriptions etc.). I’ve been around a ton of gyms and bookstores looking for books about where to boulder, but here in Europe everyone seems to have a fascination for France and not so much the states. Nobody at any of my regular gyms has ever been to the states, so I have to resort to different sources of information =)
A friend at my gym recommended me your blog, so I started reading and the big friendly “Drop me a line” button was tempting enough to drop you a line.So my actual question is twofold. On the one hand, I was hoping you could recommend me any books/maps/topos or anything with nice guides on where to boulder?
I realize thats kind of a big question, so more specifically I’m looking for boulders in California and Nevada. Seeing as you’re from Utah, hopefully you can point me in the right direction 🙂On the other hand, I’m looking for a place to rent a crashpad for a couple of weeks. I fly into vegas and would like to start climbing red rock canyon there ASAP. So I guess this is probably too specific a question,but nothing ventured nothing gained 😉
I look forward to hearing back from you 🙂
—Josh
P.S.
I hope this wasn’t too direct of an Email.. I’m not so good at writing stuff like this =)
Hi Josh,
I hope you’re planning to do a winter visit for bouldering, because some of the really good spots in the States are pretty hot. In Utah, I recommend Joe’s Valley and Little Cottonwood Canyon in Salt Lake City. Big Bend in Moab is pretty good–maybe not full destination material, but definitely worth a visit if you’re around. In California, there is great bouldering around Bishop (Buttermilks, Happy/Sad Boulders) and Black Mountain has some nice, slightly cooler boulders. Joshua Tree in California is another good spot, but also definitely not a summer destination. There is some good, warm-season bouldering in Tuolomne Meadows, and then of course all the Yosemite bouldering. Texas is not really on the way at all for what you have planned, but I’m sure you’ve heard of Hueco Tanks: another good cold season destination to visit at some point.
If you need more information about these places without having to invest in a million guidebooks, check out Mountain Project.
I hope to hear from others with more suggestions for you, and I hope you have a great trip!
Steph
My personal favorite is Squamish in Canada. I just came back for a trip and it is so beautiful! Ask around the climbing community who is very helpful about places to go and where to stay. I hope you have a lot of fun 🙂 Check out some videos of the places too!
In order: Yosemite, Priest Draw (waaaaay back in the back), Calico Basin, Hueco, Northern Devil’s Canyon, and without a doubt honorable mention goes to The Maze, Second Mountain and Dictum Ridge, all tucked away in a tiny corner of the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. Hundreds of climbers drive right by the Lower Rawley Springs access road every summer, while locals play on the challenging walls, roofs, and monoliths that dot the hills and line Gum Run.
Yeah, not all Cali or Utah, but that’s my tops list
Bishop, Red Rocks and J-Tree. Also the many places along the 395 corridor between Lee Vining and Bishop.
Desert Rock Sports in Las Vegas can give you information on climbing at Red Rock Canyon, also their website says they rent crash pads (http://desertrocksportslv.com). Hope you have a great trip!
veighteen.com is a crash pad rental company based in Northern California if you’re headed out to the West Coast!! Good luck and have fun on your trip 🙂
thanks C.J. 🙂
thanks!
thanks Thom!
Great to know, thanks!
Great beta, thanks!