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Talking About Indian Creek

• December 2007
• Uncategorized

Hello Steph,
Great blog and site. Even better climbing and skydiving exploits =). I can’t wait to read your book.
I’ve been bitten by the crack bug this last year and I greatly enjoyed your advice on the topic. It’s quite a different style of climbing than the thin, edgy stuff you find at Eldo, which is where I cut my teeth. So, I’ve been working on local cracks as much as possible in anticipation of making a trip out to Indian Creek next spring (hopefully, the first of many!).

The uniform cracks of IC are unlike most of the stuff here in Colorado. I know that you are an expert on the area. I wondered if you could offer up some advice on some good introductory climbs there. I’ve heard that there are some stellar climbs in that range that are also not always overrun by the masses like Supercrack. But, I haven’t procured any beta on specifics.
Just a quick closing note: my climbing compadres and I are greatly inspired by yours and Dean’s attitude toward climbing. Your comments about climbing the Diamond and the Flying Buttresses made for an awesome read. Also, I’ve consciously started adopting Dean’s idea of climbing things because they’re beautiful, not because they represent a number grade.
I look forward to hearing more of your explorations,
Ped.

Hey Steph.
I met you at OR and you told me to check out your blog. It is great. I am always checking it out. Its pretty motivating to keep charging. Anyways, I am going on a little road trip for a few weeks just after the holidays and am gonna spend a few days in Moab – and possibly new years! I have never been and was curious if you had any recommendations on things to do or places to see – or even any good new years parties! I will probably be sleeping either in my car or pitching a tent somewhere, so good ideas on that would be appreciated as well. As I mentioned earlier, you and Dean are extremely motivating. Keep livin the life!
Cheers,
Vince

Dear Larry and Vince,
It’s nice to hear from you! And I’m so glad you will be traveling to Moab/Indian Creek. I can’t think of a better place to go 🙂 I have to warn you that winter, in my opinion, is the best climbing season in the desert, but it is also the worst camping season! I’ve spent many a sixeen hour night in the back of my truck at Indian Creek, cuddling for survival with Fletcher.

But the great climbing temperatures somehow always made up for it……as long as there is sun, you will have beautiful days. My recommendation for camping is to make sure you camp where you will get the very first possible morning sun! This is crucial winter desert camping beta!!!

I really recommend spending some winter days at Super Crack Buttress and Battle of the Bulge. There’s a reason these buttresses are so popular, and it’s because they have easy access, stacks of amazing cracks, and great winter sun. If you are going to the desert now, you won’t even find any crowds, just a few other nice people if it’s a weekend, and you will be glad to see someone else 🙂

Another crag I really like with good moderate climbs is the Second Meat Wall, and Broken Tooth is also a great winter crag which really bakes in the sun (but with slightly more difficult climbs). You will also enjoy Scarface wall. I know that if you spend a couple of days at Super Crack and Battle of the Bulge, you will dial in the unique desert techniques, and you will be ready to climb a little harder, which will allow you to have fun at every cliff in the desert. And just remember, you really can’t get into trouble on a splitter crack, as long as you have cams that fit!
Best to you both,
xxx Steph