Sports Psychology

Hi Steph,
I first saw you climbing on the DVD the Sharp End. I’m completely in AWE of what you do. I think it is truly AMAZING!!!! I’d just like to say your an inspiration to a lot of people out there!!

I’m a personal trainer, and I deal with a lot of clients everyday who find it difficult to even exercise in their homogenized lifestyle. A lot of them have no idea what their limits are and whenever I see people like you doing what they do it shows me that there has and never will be a substitute for hard work and the real commitment it takes to be a winner.

Since I am considering studying Sports Psychology at UCT I wondered if you may answer a question I have –

Prior to your solo’s do you follow a specified way of preparing yourself? I noticed you generally hike up to where you solo and from my own experience the walk-in for me to any route plays a major role in mental prep and how I climb. What is your philosophy? Thanks in advance for any feedback I get. It is so important to hear feedback from people who push the boundaries in such extreme roles because the underlying principles really do apply to many achievments in life.

Thanks for sharing all your thoughts on your blog and who knows maybe I will catch you on the rock in CT?
Have a great day
David Robertson
Snr Wellness Coach
Renaissance Body Science Institute
Cape Town
South Africa

Dear David,
I do think free soloing is almost entirely mental, especially if you are conservative in your approach and careful with your selection of difficulty. I have to be in the right head space to do harder free solos. However, I have always seen with myself that I perform better when the commitment is higher, perhaps because the need to focus is not optional. I have a harder time focusing when in a less extreme situation, unfortunately.
Usually I am thinking about the climb all the time, when I am getting ready for a solo of that nature. The hike up, or the day before even, are all about getting into a state of complete focus. Hiking up is good, because the time can be spent breathing, listening to music, and trying to be relaxed. That’s pretty much what it comes down to, really–breathing, being calm, and focusing completely. I think someone who is more advanced in this practice can reach that state more easily, rather than only in high-pressure situations. So it’s a life long practice.
Best to you!
xx Steph


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