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Ropes, Feet and Cracks

• October 2016
• Hi Steph Climb

Hi Steph! A while ago I contacted you with a question about climbing shoes and running injuries, and I figured out than I just need to do some very specific exercises for my lower legs after climbing and before running to keep everything working properly. Anyway, I wanted to say that you are a huge inspiration for me, in june ’15 i finished high school and decided to take a year off to hit the road and pursue climbing to my hearts content. In the fall I did lots of scrambling in the high sierra, until the snow drove me down to the valley, I read your books and definitely agree with your feelings about the scene there… the day after I arrived a big snow system rolled in and it started to snow on and off, but to my delight, most of the crowds, and climbers, left! It was still warm enough for the rock to be dry by late morning, and I had camp 4 virtually to myself, with just enough climbers to have consistent partners! This spring I made It out to Moab for the first time and can’t wait to get back, or maybe move there… I met Keith Reynolds, and he let me and my partner stay in his yard whenever we wanted, such a cool guy. Now, my question, When I was climbing at indian creek I was having trouble with either jamming the rope in the crack with my feet and/or getting my legs all tangled up. You have any tips? I have never really had trouble with this on granite, with other feet to use and less perfect cracks.
Thanks again,
Nick

Hi Nick,
Thanks for getting in touch 🙂 Ropes in the feet is one of the trickiest things about climbing splitters (and corners and layback cracks). It’s one of those things that is incredibly awkward and annoying at first but it does get better over time.

If you’re climbing a straight-in splitter you’ll notice that if you lean to the side when you’re stepping up to put your foot in, it will also take your rope out to the side. This allows you to either quickly dive your foot in during that moment when the rope is pulled, or if you haven’t been quick enough, to give a little extra flick with one hand. Mainly you’re just trying to find a moment when the rope is already moving out of the way and pounce on that moment to stick your foot in. You can also use your foot to somewhat kick or push the rope out of the way in that moment.

These maneuvers will feel unbelievably irritating at first, but over time I think your body gets used to the little adjustments and starts doing them more automatically. After a while you probably won’t notice this happening as much.

One other note on ropes and Indian Creek: I like to use a slightly thicker rope at the Creek than I do in some other places. For example, for most sport climbing areas, I like the Finesse 9.3. At Indian Creek, I go for the 9.5 Infinity Protect (which has more durability as well), and ideally a 70 meter. The sandstone is more abrasive, and often when one long route gets led people want to toprope it, so the ropes get more abuse. It’s also a little more confidence inspiring to have a slightly thicker rope in those moments where you’re getting nervous about the foot shuffles and starting to think about the rope rubbing in various places that it might be rubbing….
Good luck!
Steph