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How To Start Lead Climbing?

• November 2008
• Hi Steph Climb

Hi Steph!
I’ve got a question for you about lead climbing, but first I want to thank you as so many others have for maintaining such a great blog. You’re simultaneously a great climber’s/jumper’s resource AND an inspiration to so many of us trying to find and maintain balance in our lives. I first read High Infatuation before I even started climbing and I think it’s a testament to your style and voice that I felt moved by it without even a little frame of reference climbing-wise. So thank you thank you thank you for sharing your experiences. It makes me feel good to know you’re out there doing your thing and reaching so many people, as I am out here doing mine… and that personal evolution and community is at the forefront of our wild endeavors!
Okay. So here’s my question finally.

I have been climbing for a little less than a year. It quickly became my passion and I’m pleased to report that my skill and enjoyment of it grows in proportion to how much time and energy and determination I’m putting into it. Yay! It has become clear to me lately that the next step in my climbing life is to start leading. Everytime I think about it I am amazed that I still haven’t done it considering that I’ve seconded a handful of multi-pitch climbs, taken a course on “learning to lead” (practiced mock-leading on a toprope), feel comfortable building anchors, and in the long-term aspire to climb big walls. Why can’t I suck it up and try it? I’m beginning to feel I might be — dare I say it — afraid? Maybe I don’t have a specific enough approach mapped out. I don’t know. I don’t know what’s keeping me from taking the next step and I would love to hear your advice on it if you get the chance to respond.
Thanks again!
Abbey

Dear Abbey,
Thanks for your email 🙂 Don’t feel bad that you haven’t started to lead yet, in less than a year of climbing. I toproped and bouldered for at least that long, before I even knew there WAS such a thing as lead climbing! Seriously. I remember that I started by leading some easy sport routes. After a little while, I wanted to start placing gear, and I went to Joshua Tree for my first gear lead. It was a 5.7 crack (I climbed about 5.11 at the time), and when my partner came up to the anchor, he reported that all my gear had fallen out. Hmm. I did my next gear leads at Devil’s Tower, which is a perfect place to start, thanks to having all sorts of footholds everywhere, and perfectly tapered finger cracks that you can basically drop nuts into and get bomber gear placements. As with everything in climbing, just start small (i.e., well below your highest level), make sure you are being conscious of safety, and be willing to accept a little fear at first. Once you get going, you will relax and do better and better.

I also strongly recommend taking practice lead falls as soon as possible, when you start leading sport routes. Get up on the route, and climb so your knot is about a foot above a bolt, and then intentionally let go, making sure your partner knows to give you a little slack (especially being a girl, and likely smaller than your belayer, this is really important, so the fall is a dynamic, soft one). This sounds pretty silly, but you may feel nervous subconsciously since the experience is new. If you intentionally climb above the bolt and let go a few times, your brain and body will learn that nothing happens, and it will help you move past that nervousness and make it more fun for you.

Remember to be very safe, and just take one step at a a time….
xx Steph