Friendly Cracks at Indian Creek?

Hi Steph,
I recently took an intro crack climbing class at Momentum climbing gym in SLC and I really enjoyed it. I’ll be headed out on a climbing road trip in the next couple of weeks and would love to climb some splitters in southern Utah. Are there any areas that are more beginner friendly for new crack climbers that you could recommend? I really enjoyed your book and I always look forward to your blog updates. Thanks for bringing an intelligent and down to earth female perspective to climbing.
Cheers,
Leslie

Dear Leslie,
There are a few places to find more moderate routes at Indian Creek. The right side of Battle of the Bulge, called Donnelly Canyon, has a couple of 5.9 routes. I would also really recommend Pistol Whippped Wall, as there are lots of short (i.e. non intimidating!) routes and easier cracks to climb, as well as being off the main drag and very beautiful.
Don’t forget your tape! But if you do, they sell the best kind for Indian Creek at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab.
At this time of year, you are going to need to chase shade, so start early and keep following the northwest facing dihedrals as much as possible.
I hope you have a great time!


One response to “Friendly Cracks at Indian Creek?”

  1. Neal says:

    Great timing on the post as I’ll be there myself in about 10 days time 🙂 Good to know that we’ll be chasing shade too, some people were adamant that I wouldn’t be hiding from the sun – I was struggling to believe them….
    @theusualsuspect (Twitter)

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