Freedom
- June 2007
- Uncategorized
Outer Limits, Yosemite
Soloing is something special. My head can get too filled with things, and free soloing brings my focus down all the way. Only the rock, only my body. Those are the only thoughts. Sometimes in life, I need that place so badly.
There are little moments of good interruption, on the cruiser joy routes…..a few days ago, I met two very nice guys, Evan and Ryan, on West Crack, a classic route up Daff Dome in Tuolomne. They made me laugh, and sent me pictures later! And an awesome poem–check it out!
Part of what I love most about soloing the more moderate routes, where I’m not having to focus so hard on the climbing, is meeting the other people on the route. The day after I met Evan and Ryan, I was climbing The Royal Arches down in the Valley. It was HOT. I mean, HOT!!! I shared the pitch up to the rope swing with a great girl, who was doing an incredible job with a heavy pack on…….but I knew she was smart, because she had two liters of water in there….. and did I mention, it was HOT?
Hi Steph!
I (Evan) am the guy with the camera you saw at the top
of the splitter fingercrack near the end of Daff’s W
Crack route. 
It was cool to meet you. I am going to
pick up a copy of your book. Writing is good for the
mind…lately I have been writing a lot as well.
I wrote a hip hop rhyme about the perfect day in my
life…. it is about surfing and eating, but mostly about solo
climbing. I am sending it to you; I bet you will
enjoy it. You are living that dream everyday. When I become a famous rapper
the world of hip hop will not be so devoid of good
mountain climbing stories!
I saw what you wrote about Fairview Dome Reg. Route on
your blog. My dready friend Ryan and I did it on
Sunday. What an awesome route! I climbed it in late
September 2000; I remember it was so cold that morning
that my spoon froze to the bear box in between
stirring the hot oatmeal. This time it was much less
wintry feeling.
When I summit something worthwhile I like to take a
summit photo with my team as if we are a rock band.
You are all rock stars at that moment, right? Not a
normal everyone look at the camera and smile summit
picture. More like the apathetic stare off into space
we are so cool picture.
I am sending:
1) my hip hop “6pm to 6pm”
2) a cool pic of Ryan before P3 of W Crack
3) Ryan and I’s band photo from Fairview summit
4) both shots I got of you on W Crack
I am curious what you think of my poetry.
Rock on!
Evan
6pm to 6pm
or, 24 hours of NOR-CAL
by Evan Fowler
The perfect day in Northern California
Ending a surf session to a great meal to a solo mountaineering trip in the Sierras
(turn on the beatbox in your head first)
Last ride
Glide across the water like Christ
Freezin’
It’s evenin’
I’m leavin’ the marine scene
Eyes connect to the soul of a seal
UNREAL
Beach
A man once again
Props to the first amphibian
Hunger hit
Sit
Park it
Buy fresh fish from the market
Food is fuel like a spiritual goo
‘Till I learn to not need it
Eat it
Prep whole foods and dress it
Bless it
Make it fine with a squeeze ‘a fresh lime
Journey’s mine in this life rhyme
Do what it takes to face the beast
Don’t cease!
Learn Sonoma County
Ain’t ya heard?
Come to Nor-cal for the word
We got funk and more
Support organic stores!
Here we work for fun
Surf
Climb a mountain
Play
Like kids in fountains
Stompin’ out 40 a week stuck in a box
Red Socks got cops and a city nearby
But I fly up the side of a cliff
Puttin’ life down on the line
Wow
This route looks fine
No rope
No joke
But zen is on my side
VIDA LOCA
World is hella wild
I ain’t never seen the end of this trend
Setter
Better than I was last year
Clear fear from my game
Who needs fame?
Nah…just want to bring the vibe higher
Style
Trees a thousand feet below my knees
Fight spirit wars
BOOM
Never use a weight room
But I’m strong
Cliff swallow dive down below
Solo
I continue
“creep like a lizard, sting like a bee”
Don’t sweat
Three part breath
Yoga
Geta holda love from the mama earth
Go higher
See the curve
Don’t swerve
Earth is round with a hundred mile view
Done with school
Now I learn everywhere
No need to swear
No one to hear it
SPIRIT
Two thousand feet under me
Really free
From the shackles ‘a Babylon
Heart pound
Not a sound
But the wind
Smell cold granite planet
“now I got my creep on”
Seep a water
WOAH
Wet might bring me down
GRIP
Avoid the void below
Here’s a ledge
Stop
Clear my head
Eat
Fruits and nuts
Spiritual goo
Don’t be a klutz
Keep up and watch the weather
Clouds, Sun tell me all I need to know
On the go
Once again
Hat, gloves, another layer
I’m a player of a dangerous game
‘Till I’m old and lame
Unless I give before
But I’ve lived!
Angle easin’
Treason against my country for their crimes
Gotta get mine
Come back stronger
Fight hatemongers
See the summit
DONE IT
Crawl up
Stand up and CRY
TEARS OF JOY AND EMOTION
(use suntan lotion)
Take a sip from the camel on my back
Relax and contemplate
Mind state elate
Yodel and meditate
Feelin’ SO ILL
Live or die it’s fate
Gettin’ late
Wind come up
Sun sink
One last drink
Pull out my ego
There it goes!
Blow away like a prayer flag
Yeah…my pants sag
I keep it loose like my body on the Earth
Descend to find my friends
In a blur
No stir in the forest
“where’s that car at?”
Found what I sought
I bought
A few weeks more
Peace a’ mind
Before
I need some time
To make
Another plan
So fine that mountain time
Next trip’s already on my mind.
Evan, I love your poem/rap.
“Pull out my ego There it goes! Blow away like a prayer flag”
Right on!
Thanks so much for such a perfect email care package! I’m so glad I met you up there. See you in the next place,
xx Steph
hi!
do you climb indoors?
can U talk a bit about ur training?
Hi George! I climb on plastic a little bit….I have a great outdoor wall in Moab, which I love, especially in the winter. And when I am traveling, I always like to go to local climbing gyms and move around a little. I went to the Spot, in Boulder, last Saturday evening, and had a really good time. What a great gym! There’s just nothing like the finger strength you get from plastic, is there?
But for “training”, I mostly like to go to Rifle, Colorado, and climb. Since I have never been a pure sport climber, I find that getting stronger on steep limestone dramatically improves my climbing when I go back to “normal” stuff, like Yosemite or Indian Creek…..And I LOVE Rifle. I love everything about it! So it’s easy for me to want to climb there, which is probably the most important thing for a training plan.
I’ve also found that yoga is really good training for climbing, and in the last few years, I have been making sure to do lots of core workouts at the end of yoga sessions. Those two things have made a noticeable difference for me with climbing.
I also like to trail run, and skate ski in the winter. Skate skiing seems to be really good for climbing too.
Hey Steph!
Love the photo section of your site. Inspiring stuff. It was rad to meet you after reading about you in the climbing rags. Keep the posts coming. Hope to see you out there again! Come visit us in wine country when you need a recharge. Jericho Canyon Vineyards, Calistoga!
Ryan
Thanks Ryan! That was a great day, and meeting you guys was a definite highlight. Drink a fine glass of California wine for me :), and think of me out here in Colorado…..
xx Steph