the april 2024 clinic is full but you can get on the backup list
Indian Creek Crack Clinic
My Indian Creek crack climbing clinics are happening twice a year: in spring and fall. If you are looking for a way to get into crack climbing, improve your skills, and meet a fun group of people, this event is for you!
The group is capped at 10, and the clinic takes place Sunday-Tuesday so we can have our pick of classic routes.
Where We Meet
We meet up in Moab on Sunday afternoon and drive together to our campsite at my cabin at Indian Creek, where everyone can pitch tents and get settled in. Dinner, beer and a campfire are provided for you that night so we can relax, get to know each other and have a peaceful night sleep before heading to the Creek the next morning! Meals are all vegan (with the exception of local eggs as an option at breakfasts).
What to Expect
On Monday morning, breakfast and coffee are ready for you at the campsite, and also lunch to take to the crag. You’ll receive a pair of Evolv crack climbing shoes (that you get to keep), tape (and a few other surprises!) and unlimited access to cams, ropes and a full day of crack climbing fun and instruction from me and fellow desert locals, Lisa Hathaway, Lance Lemkau and Chris Kalous (of Enormocast). You’ll also get professional photography of everything we do at the clinic, as well as photos of yourself climbing (so please make sure you bring some bright shirts for climbing!).
On day one, we cover taping and the elements of crack specific climbing techniques on the sandstone splitters and get climbing! That afternoon, we provide a clinic on anchor building techniques and break into small groups to allow everyone to practice the methods that are new and ask individual questions.
That evening we’ll head back to camp where dinner is waiting for us, as well as beer, a campfire and musical entertainment from our guides.
Tuesday morning, breakfast is provided and lunch for the crag, and it’s up to the cliffs again. We will push the climbing on harder and longer routes and our climbing photographer will take professional quality photos of everyone from above.
The clinic is always slightly different each time, depending on the group, weather and conditions: we keep a high instructor/climber ratio so we can accommodate everyone’s climbing level and goals during our time together.
After the clinic, you will get a link with high-res, downloadable versions of all the photos to keep and share on Facebook, Instagram, personal albums, company slide shows or emails to mom 🙂
If you are comfortable climbing 5.9 to 5.11, you will have a great time with us at the Creek!
Frequently Asked Questions
I climb 5.9, will I be able to take the clinic?
Yes, if you can toprope 5.9 to 5.11, you will be able to climb, learn and improve over the weekend. Most participants are comfortable toproping 5.10 or 5.11, and have led 5.9 or 5.10 either in the gym, sport climbing or on cracks. We use moderate routes for teaching things like jamming, foot techniques and practice leading, and we also put ropes on harder routes for people to push it and get well pumped by the end of the weekend.
Is this clinic for newer or more experienced climbers?
We always get a range of experience levels in the group, and we base what we climb on the group. We have a high instructor/participant ratio so we can make sure everyone gets instruction at the appropriate level. Keep in mind that a group setting is different than individual guiding, but we will always do our best to accommodate the interests of everyone in the group.
Do I need a rack?
You only need a harness and a chalkbag: you receive a pair of Evolv climbing shoes, sized larger for cracks, to keep. We provide all ropes, gear, tape and rope gunning, and all the food, coffee and beer you’ll need.
What will we learn at the clinic?
One the first day, we start with taping. We spend the rest of the day focusing on hand jamming and foot jamming, and practicing these on some classic pitches to get comfortable with the techniques and the area. In the afternoon we discuss the pros and cons of different anchor building techniques, and break into small groups to practice. On day 2 we discuss cams, correct placements, racking methods and leading tips/tactics, and climb as much as possible. This is not a lead clinic: for those who are interested in lead practice, any lead practice done with us will be mock leading, in order to focus on techniques without the danger of falls. Ideally you will leave with a solid base of crack climbing skills, 1-3 new anchor building methods, a greater knowledge of gear safety, some new climbing partners, and a good pump.
Do we get to keep the professional photos of ourselves?
Our photographer shoots photos throughout the 2 days, of everyone at the crags, and also on ropes from above. After the clinic, he uploads all the images and sends everyone the link so you can download the high-res versions of your shots and everyone else’s.
What happens if it rains during the scheduled dates?
The weather is the one thing we can’t control, but we will always do our best to work around the weather. The ethic in the desert is not to climb on wet sandstone because it can damage the rock, and the accepted practice is to wait a full day to climb once the rock becomes saturated. Please understand that any time we schedule an event outdoors we are operating by nature’s rules and it is possible to get washed out by rain. We can and will work around sprinkles and non-saturating rain, and if we need to wait for the rock to dry we will use the time for more instruction, so be sure to bring a rain jacket just in case! No matter what month the clinic takes place, you will need clothing and sleeping layers for temperatures from extremely hot to extremely cold: check the weather in the days before you travel and pack for every possibility.
