Climbing Daily?
Steph, I just wanted to say that you are an awesome inspiration and I am so glad that you are so active online documenting things for others to learn and share from your experiences. I just bought your book and cannot wait to read it. I got into climbing in August and I am hooked. In fact I only became active ever since I moved to San Francisco, and that was about 1 1/2 year ago. Since I moved to SF I’ve done all sorts of activity and have lost about 80 pounds now. It got to the point I wasn’t getting tired from doing a lot of activity.. until I tried climbing.. Climbing was the only sport that got me exhausted at that time, but I loved it as you also have to think, and the thought and idea of doing it outdoors ! I became a member at my local climbing gym after going twice, I knew immediately I was hooked.
I now go to the gym 3 times a week, to do top rope, sometimes boulder, and am considering going more often but I wonder what is a good balance. Can/should I be climbing daily? I have read some professionals do it.. If so what tips do you have to offer for someone so addicted to it? With my routines I typically climb about 9-10 routes each day that I go, and as of the last month I now have climbed 16 and then 17 routes in one day, about 5 hours. I noticed running a mile before climbing helps. One time running helped after climbing for a while, it seemed to re-energize me quite a bit, quite unexpectedly. I also after some other climber’s advice I do 3 easy routes to help with warming up the hands, this seems crucial if I climbed *a lot* the day before. I also started taping up my hands towards the end if I know I am going to climb a lot of routes, and also then tape them up the next day. I am taping up just the middle finger and ring finger, not sure what’s best but that seemed right. This all just got me wondering if this is OK, if I should try to go every day and instead of climbing 17 routes focus on only say .. 8 for each day. Not sure. I just love the sport so much. Any tips on this is greatly appreciated.
Not sure if telling you what levels I climb will help for any advice you provide but I am now working on 5.10d’s, I have done some 5.11a’s and one 5.11b, but I think I need to first complete a hard 5.10d on-sight and then I will feel I can “graduate” on to 11s. Bouldering, I am at V1, have done some V2s. I am considering taking a class to help me improve technique. Today while doing a 5.10d with overhang I had to take quite a few breaks. I realized that if someone could do that route on-sight then that should mean that I really need to learn to improve my technique.
I’m glad to say that I have spread the love of climbing with others as well. One friend of mine has gotten into it as much as I have, and I think she is a better climber than I am. In a matter of only two months she was already doing 5.10d’s!
Keep rocking!
PS. I’m a vegetarian, but fun story: on of these days at my job they had a company “lunch meeting”. I told the receptionist I was vegetarian, so .. she ordered me a salad. That really had me all oozy climbing. I had to eat some 2 clif bars and some juices to get through the night climbing but even in the end I felt I was all out of energy. I now eat pretty good hefty stuff before a good climb.
Luis
Oh and I’ve seen some climbing movies now, not much available 🙁 Cliffhanger and 127 hours. I was not a big fan of either. I am hoping someone one day will make a movie of your story.
Dear Luis,
You are stoked! That is great! Mainly, you should think about being careful, especially since you are a newer climber and you are considering going to the gym every day. The fact that you are needing to tape is a big warning sign. I know it’s hard to hold back, when this whole new world is unfolding. But it’s a sure recipe for finger, elbow or shoulder injury to go all out this fast. Remember that you need rest days for muscle and tissue to rebuild, and your fingers are not used to being weighted so much. Three days a week should be the max, and with 4-7 you are flirting with tendon issues. Try not to tape your fingers if it’s not necessary. If you have energy to burn and you just can’t stop yourself, consider focusing on core strength. There are countless variations of crunches, leg raises and planks you can do. I think improving your core is one of the single best things you can do for climbing.
In between your gym sessions, you could do some cross training of your choice: running, biking, swimming, yoga or weight lifting. This will keep your circulation going, improve your lungs, and in the case of yoga, give you even more muscle gains on your “rest” days.
Keep enjoying!
Steph
