Climbing and Age Limits
Steph, is it too late for a 52 year old guy, in good shape, to begin to climb? What are the limitations?
Charles
Hi Charles,
My friend Lee Sheftel is one of my greatest climbing inspirations. He’s over 60, and he has been climbing at Rifle for over twenty years. Lee redpointed his first 14a at the age of 59–perhaps the oldest person in the world to have climbed this grade. He also climbed many 13c’s and d’s in his 50s, on his way up the grade ladder. Not only that, he’s done many long routes in Yosemite and the Black Canyon, and penned perhaps my favorite tech tip ever: corraling an absent-minded partner.
Lee is out at Rifle several times a week, since he conveniently lives in Carbondale, Colorado (just outside of Rifle) with his wife Cheryl and lovely Australian Shepherd, Ruby, and works as a full time as a self employed income tax professional. And just to put the icing on the cake, he is a classical pianist, in his spare time. So Lee is generally a superhero, as well as a climbing hero.
I first met Lee at Rifle and was deeply impressed with his climbing at what I consider one of the most physical and techy sport climbing areas in the US. And when he broke the 5.14 barrier, it got me so excited, because he was climbing a grade that didn’t even exist when he was at his “prime” climbing age!
Nowadays kids seem to be starting to climb basically from the day they leave the womb and going directly to train in the gym, and so they almost expect to be climbing 5.16 by the time they are in eighth grade. Like watching young gymnasts or ice skaters, it’s lovely and fascinating to see children and small lizards scampering up unimaginably difficult walls, but it is definitely not what I would call “inspiring.” Since none of us will ever become younger or a small reptile, these impressive feats do not give anyone who is not in that demographic anything to aspire to–and can also make you question if it’s possible to even try….
However, watching someone who is several decades older than you, AND of the same species, climb an unimaginably difficult wall makes you think, “wow, maybe I could do that someday too!” and that is the meaning of inspiration. All Rifle climbers love Lee, not just for his wonderful personality, but because he gives us that inspiration every time we watch him crushing at Rifle.
Lee generously offered to answer your question–with advice that is wise and valuable for any climber.
Thank you Lee!
xxSteph
Charles, my name is Lee Sheftel and i am a friend of Steph’s who forwarded your query to me since I am an “older” climber.
The short answer to your question ” is it too late for a 52 year old guy, in good shape, to begin to climb? ” is NO, it’s not too late (never too late!!).
Although I started a bit younger than you, at 33 years old, to climb, I am considered to be a late bloomer so to speak. I am almost 65 years old now and am still passionate about the sport and climb often. A few thoughts follow on starting out later in life. I will present my “long” answer in two sections to each point; the first section describes how I think you should train and what to expect or not to expect. Then I will describe the possible disadvantages and problems that the “older” climber faces. I will then describe our possible advantage over the younger climbers.
How to begin:
First off you should get out on the rock with an experienced climber and learn the “ropes” and you should start on easy climbs; you should concentrate on on efficiency of movement at first and NOT on powerful or gymnastic type moves. As a matter of fact i would tend to stay away from the climbing gyms at first unless you have access to a gym that has climbs graded at 5.8 or easier. I have a friend who recently started climbing and he is 40 years old. he keeps saying how he needs to get strong and I keep telling him he needs to learn how to climb first and not worry about getting strong. it will come.
-the advantage that younger climbers have over us, especially when they are in their teens or early twenties, is that they are more supple, more flexible, and thus less injury prone. Therefore, take a gradual approach and stretch and warm up prior to climbing.
Secondly, whether you are getting into trad, sport, mixed or whatever type of climbing, the important thing is to understand that you need to be patient; very, very patient. It takes most of us years to get good at this sport. it’s like a martial art or a complex dance routine in many ways. It’s mostly about technique and it simply takes time for your body to understand the movements and body positions needed to get up a given section of rock.
-here us older climbers may have an advantage over the younger ones in that they are typically impatient in both their expectations and in their actual climbing. Remember to be patient and not to expect too much too fast. Younger climbers also tend to “go for it” more and give in to peer pressure and thus often end up injured. Listen to your body. You don’t want to get injured.
Thirdly, the more you climb, the faster you will see progress. Everyone is different in how they develop but i would use an estimate of approximately 6 months of climbing to a year before you should start a strength training regimen.
-regarding this, because the younger climber has hormones on their side they can get strong very quckly and can recover very quickly as well. We typically cannot, so to get fit for climbing, i would concentrate on endurance during the first year or so which means you want to climb lots of pitches in a day and typically longish pitches which usually translates to 30 hand movements or longer on either the rock or the gym. The beginner climber at any age will gain strength simply by default by climbing various routes.
Finally, there are many factors that will determine how proficient you get at this sport. some factors you have control over such as passion, time, access, fitness level and weight (weight is a huge factor in climbing as we are constantly fighting gravity so any excess weight is not to a climbers advantage. If you think you could lose a few pounds then it will be to your advantage to do so) Factors we don’t have control over are obviously our age and genetics. I found that after climbing 10 years or so, my main weakness was that I am not a “powerful” climber relatively speaking. My strength lies in my endurance and perserverance. I continue to train strength periodically but realize I cannot overcome my genetics in this regard. I also noticed that it takes me two to three days to recover from a hard day on the rock or in the gym so expect longer recovery times than the young lads and gals. The main thing is to enjoy yourself. Too many climbers get caught up in the “grades ” of climbs (I am no exception) and i have seen many climbers get burned out of the sport because of it so make sure your climbing and training are enjoyable. that is another area that I think us older climbers have as an advantage in that we get into the sport for the correct reasons- we like climbing!
Hope to see you out there!
Lee Sheftel
Hi Steph, Lee, & all commenters,
thanks SO much for all this info. I reached this page following a Google Search: “old people rock climbing”.
I’m 48yo & live in Tasmania (Australia) where I do a lot of bushwalking. It’s a miracle I can say that, as I spent almost my entire 30s in bed (that’s right, a whole decade, minus 6 months where I sat in an armchair) due to a severe case of alcoholism! I drank huge quantities of Jim Beam, lived on KFC (when I could afford it), & managed to put on 40kilos of fat. I was very malnourished, had matted hair, & also ended up dressed in rags.
Today I live in a great apartment the CBD of gorgeous Hobart, & from my window I look out at several enticing mountains. I started bushwalking just 2 1/2 years ago (after 6 years of complete sobriety). Two years ago I completed the Point to Pinnacle event in Hobart: this world famous event is billed as “the world’s toughest half marathon”. I entered as a walker, not a runner, but this is still a miracle for someone who spent a decade in bed (it took me years to relearn to walk normally)! The event goes from the beach (2m) to the summit of Mt Wellington (1271m).
I am posting because I’ve been a bit depressed lately (personal issues) & am looking for my next challenge. Just this morning I finished rereading Lynn Hill’s moving book (Climbing Free). It’s an amazing story but I’ve been thinking (with lots of self-pity!) that I’m too old to start rock climbing. But thanks to this amazing post I’ve realized that’s not true! I can’t thank you all enough for bringing me hope!
I did ballet for 7 yrs as a child, & I yearn to do something which uses every part of me: body, mind, emotions, & soul. Just in the last half an hour I’ve realized that rock climbing can still be in my future! I actually do not have a naturally good head for heights. I also have nerve damage in my feet from my drinking. But I’ve already come so far with my hiking: lost 40kilos, & scrambled (not climbed) up cliffs in the middle of nowhere by myself in the middle of the Tasmanian winter. And you have all given me utterly invaluable tips just now! So rock climbing here I come!
Michelle 🙂 x
congrats Michelle, and enjoy!
I can’t help but think that the problem lies with you and not the other climbers. Obviously I can’t be sure which gym you’ve been to but every gym I’ve been to have had really great people in them (both women and men), if you really enjoy climbing and that gym sucks then try another… I also do not understand why being social and climbing is a problem?
Generally, I think people watch each other for betas or because someone is far better than themselves and it’s a joy to watch a great climber. Also there isn’t much else to do while you rest your underarms between climbs if you are there alone except plan your next climb or watch other climbers.
Sometimes though, I find myself looking at a “beginner” because I feel like helping (if their technique is messed up and basically one quick sentence will help them become a better climber (like straighten your arms, use your legs etc.) or they try moves that might hurt their shoulders/elbows/fingers (typically strong people that are beginners)). I got a lot of advice from other climbers (and I still ask for advice) when I was a beginner that I still really appreciate.
Blaming all of your problems on being a woman and climbing gyms is pretty weak frankly.
Hi!
Just wanted to let you all know that I am 56 (nearly 57). I started climbing at the tender age of 55! Yes, I was in reasonably good shape before that but I was no superman… and definitely no natural athletic ability.
Since getting smitten with climbing, I have really focused on getting better by taking regular training classes at the rock gym. I have also added spinning (easier on the knees than running) and yoga to my weekly routine.
I’m sending 5.10s and projecting 5.11s in the gym. This summer I am getting much more into outdoor climbing. I’ve been to Ohiopyle and Red River Gorge. Ohiopyle was much more difficult than I expected. A 5.7 handed my butt to me but I made it after a few ledge-kissing whippers.
I have every expectation to be sending 5.13 outdoors before I’m 60. It just takes motivation, the right kind of trainging and a lot of really good friends who will hand you bandages when you leave some skin on the rocks, then encourage you to try again! 🙂
Wonderful, thanks Bruce!
I started climbing in my early 40s. I feel your pain, I was shy about it and felt people were watching me. But, I forced myself into climbing at the gym and noticed that some people are actually there to help me. Your fears will go away as soon as you start. Just do the first step and try at least three times. Also, it is best to have someone with you when you boulder outside. Many things can happen with falling off even 5 feet off the ground. Be safe.
great! 🙂 🙂
Well said IntermediateClimber.
While I prefer to climb outside, I climb indoors during winter evenings. I enjoy the social aspect of gym climbing and watching good climbers is a great way to improve your own technique.
Like you, I find gym climbers really supportive, offering encouragement and advice.
I am almost 55 ( woman)and just started climbing. I absolutely love it! I am in reasonably good shape, out and living fun, and fully recovered from cancer and treatment. You’d never know it. I find I need to be patient with myself because my body does not respond to exercise like it did when I was a young athlete. I like to see older climbers … and older athletes in general. This is what inspires me the most. I look for stories like this to know I have company out and about with other climbers. Thank you all.
that is wonderful Jan!
[…] Grace, I forwarded your question to my friend Lee Sheftel, who wrote a very inspiring post about climbing and age limits a few years back. Lee is now 69, and he crushes 5.13 at Rifle, no less, so he is a huge role model […]
Howdy! I started climbing 3 years ago when I was 59. I love it and plan on continuing to do it. I climb trad mostly and boulder also. Hardest I’ve climbed (so far) is 5.10b, hardest I’ve bouldered (inside) is V6. I hope to do one of the “easier” routes up El Cap within the next year or so. Don’t think about how old you are, think about the fun you’re having and just keep at it! The more you climb the better you’ll be. The better you are the more fun you’ll have. The more fun you have the more you’ll climb. It’s a vicious circle and I love it!
Thanks a lot for your sharing. My frustration was gone after reading your article.
I fall into the same mindset as your friend, and thought that I need to get stronger so to be a beginner, and then more skill as proficient.
But hearing you mentioned the opposite and said strength will just come along the way, that’s really really a big hint to me.
Yes ! 🙂
Great article
Thank you so much for this post, it is refreshing to know about Lee, after being at the bouldering gym with so many young climbers, he is truly an inspiration, back to the gym!!!!
I began climbing at the age of 60. After an incredible trek to Everest Base Camp and climb of Kalapatar, I got busy over the next 2 years and summited Kilimanjaro, Mount Rainier (twice), Lobuche East Peak, Aconcagua, Mount Kosciusko, Mount Whitney (mountaineers route), and Mount Elbrus. It has been exhilarating and the best of adventures. I am currently recovering from a blown ankle so I don’t know what’s next or when.
My sons got me into climbing at the gym a few months ago. Fifth time to the gym so far and was able to top four 5.10a routes in the morning. I’m done, stick a fork in me – arm pretty useless for the next few days. I didn’t realized how weak my upper body strength was, not able to complete easy routes at the gym the first few times around. As my upper body getting stronger, I hope to do 5.10b next time at the gym. BTW, I’m 69.
That’s great Frank!!
So good to read your comments. I am 47 but want to do some alpine climbs with my sons who are 3 and 4 years old. This means I would be late 50’s before they are old enough. Your comments are an inspiration and in the mean time I keep dreaming as I read The Alpinist magazine
im 49. had lower lumbar back surgery last year which failed, i was told “we need to do fusion.”…no. I could not deal with the “take your vicodin and rest and be cautious” end of story. I started working on core strength, then running, now, rock climbing. Between the arthritis, lumbar injury, and spinal stenosis, my body feels MUCH better climbing, than laying in bed all day.