Training With a Broken Ankle

Hi Steph, i broke my ankle a few days ago and I was absolutely devastated when I thought about having a long time off climbing. I was hoping you could give me some tips and advice about which exercises could keep me climbing fit.

Climbing, Hip Replacements and Age

In the last four years after two hip replacements due to the grinding punishment of long distance running in my 40s and 50s, I have returned to climbing both outside and at our local indoor gym as a fresh 60 year old. I am wondering if you have ever met, climbed with, taught anyone with joint replacements? If you have, were any of these bionic folks able to go beyond a 5.9 lead?

Mileage versus Power Training

I have a quick question: How do you balance, and/or what do you give priority to: getting mileage (i.e. long multi-pitches on manageable grades) OR, focusing on harder projects (climbs at or above your ability). And what is your projecting algorithm?

Nutrition Confusion

Hi Steph I'm Petar from Bulgaria and will try to waist some of your time. Well what's the story ...started climbing 5 years ago and was captured by long alpine routes in any form. Always trying to push myself in that environment, so never actually reached my max the grade.

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