Aliens or Mastercams?
Steph,
Thank you for posting those articles about small gear and racking on your blog. Also, you got some kick ass clips in movies, I really like the one on the diamond. That must have been an amazing experience to say the least. I am just starting to get my trad on and needless to say, it is the most engaging and demanding thing i have ever tried. I was wondering if you could possibly clear up a few things for me. I have a set of TCUs and love them! but need to double those sizes up as I don’t ever want to get on a climb and realize i need three of one piece but only had one etc. I have used aliens before and fixe just began making them again and they seem to be worth their weight in gold; you eluded to that in one of your posts as you said you loved them (at least your origional cch ones). You also say you like the met. master cams too for small placements. Is/are there any circumstances where you would choose one over the other (i.e. based upon placement) or is it what you have on your rack at a given moment in the climb? Also, how do those smaller master cams hold up after a fall while they are in a horizontal placement…provided its not something huge (15 ft. plus). I have read they like to walk in vertical placements too but I would assume it isnt anything a runner couldnt fix. Any help on this would be great as I am hung up between the aliens and mastercams. Best wishes to you and hope you are living
the dream, your climbing is very inspiring to say the least.
Brett
Hi Brett,
Thanks for writing 🙂 I notice you are thinking of getting two sets of small cams. If that’s the case, I would strongly recommend that you get one set of Aliens and one set of Mastercams. They are both great, and the sizing is just very slightly different on both, so every once in a while it is really ideal to have those slightly different sizes.
I have not yet checked out the new Aliens: in the time when they weren’t available anymore, I got very hooked on the Mastercams, and I also still have all my old ones. I’m sure they are just as great as the originals.
Recently, I’ve been finding the grey and purple Metolius cams to be a total lifesaver for when the cracks pinch down tiny. They have very nice action, and they are confidence inspiring.
Any cam is going to walk in a bit, given the opportunity. So I think you’ll find similar tendencies from both.
So if budget allows: get both 🙂
Steph
I’m relatively new to Trad (just a year in so I’ve never used aliens, but I’m leading 10a in the valley) and I will say the offset mastercams are worth every single penny, especially in Yosemite with pin scars. If you’re climbing anything with scars or flares, can’t go wrong with the offsets – they’re just bomber and super confidence inspiring.
I think I may have seen an article in a climbing magazine recently that said the new aliens would also be available in offset sizes but I can’t remember. Regardless, offsets = clutch.
valley climbers, keep your offsets! but don’t try your hardest onsights with them, or you will sabotage yourself, guaranteed 😉
I have one set of the small metolious master cams 00, 0, 1 followed by bd C4 .3, .4, etc. Recently added 4 offset aliens from blue/black to yellow/red. Steph could you further explain your comment about comment on sabotage on hard onsights.
Hi, When you use the offset aliens, if you are free climbing at your max, it’s very difficult to get them facing the right direction on the first try which often results in pumping out and falling. I find that they are great for aid climbing, when I have time to stand there and choose which side to place.
Thanks Steph. That makes sense. I’m not leading anywhere near my max which is prob old school 5.9 trad at Tahquitz. I had a nasty injury from a whipper a few years ago and I kinda decided I dont need to push my limits to have fun. I will however on routes that I can sew up and don’t have ledges to fall on. i usually have a good stance to make sure the offset is oriented correctly. Thanks. Great website by the way.