Indian Creek Climbing Weekend, October 13-14, 2012

Hello Steph 
I was looking at your blog late last night after work and noticed your Moab guiding post.
I would love to know some more information about anything you might be doing in Indian Creek. 
I am somewhat of a new climber. I have been fallowing my friend for about 2 years, being a professional gear remover. I know that’s a little lame. 

Just the last year I have stepped into leading and that has been going ok. I live in Merced Ca. so Yosemite is my main place for climbing. I am very intrigued with Indian Creek climbing, the solid vertical cracks and just the beauty of the red rock. I really want to go but, I do not think my leading skills are at level yet, it seems like everything is in the 5.9 and up area.

Me and my fiance are both very inspired by you and you life. Actually she would most likely make fun of me for sending you this email, saying that she was fallowing you first. LOL . Which she was, she has been climbing longer. 

Anyways, sorry for the rant. Are you going to be holding any clinics this coming year. Any information about the clinics or climbing in Indian Creek  would be great. 

Thank you for your time.
Ryan B

Hi Ryan,
Thanks for writing 🙂
Yes, I’m holding an Indian Creek Climbing Clinic this October 13-14, Saturday and Sunday. Normally the weather is great in October and it’s high desert season, the perfect time for climbing at Indian Creek! If you can follow 5.10 or 5.11 elsewhere, or if you are comfortable leading 5.9 to 5.10 elsewhere, you will be able to learn a lot about the pure cracks and get lots of climbing in.

Here’s the rundown of the weekend:

Anyone who arrives in Moab on Friday, October 12, is invited to get together at the Moab Brewery to grab dinner that evening at 7 pm, just to say hi and meet up.

But the weekend officially starts when we meet at the Super Crack parking area on Saturday morning at 8 a.m. We’ll be a group of 10, also joined by local hard people Lisa Hathaway and Chris Kalous to make sure we have plenty of additional belaying, rope gunning and coaching. They also happen to play guitar and sing, which they have graciously consented to do around the campfire :).

We’ll spend the day discussing basics (hand and finger taping, hand and foot jam techniques), primarily toproping to really focus on those technical elements, and also just climbing a lot.

We’ll leave the crag at 5 pm and head to our campsite, where Eula Gonzales (local chef) and Mario Richard (my lovely husband and camp manager) will have dinner cooking up for us (vegan burritos). Campfire, beer, guitar playing and stars is the Saturday night agenda.

Sunday morning we’ll get up earlyish and have breakfast (egg or tofu scramble burritos or soy yogurt and granola with fruit), coffee, and tea and head out to the cliffs to climb again.

For Sunday, we will get a little more in depth with Indian Creek techniques—more practice of off-sizes, and leading for those who want to work on that. We’ll also work on gear tips, leading tactics and racking.

We’ll be joined on Sunday by pro photographer Chris Hunter. Chris will take lots of shots of us at the crag, and he’ll also choose 1-2 routes and station himself on the wall to shoot photos of everyone climbing from above. After the event, he’ll upload all the images to his site, and everyone can download these images to have and to keep in high res—he guarantees there will be at least 3 personal climbing shots for each of you, though probably more.

We’ll climb until 6 pm that day, and then pack it up and call it a weekend! The clinic cost is $899.
If you’d like to register, send me an email ( and I will get you all the information you need to register.
Hope to see you all in crack paradise!

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