October 9-11, 2017
My Indian Creek crack climbing clinics are happening twice a year: in April and October. If you are looking for a way to get into crack climbing, improve your skills, and meet a fun group of people, this event is for you!
The group is capped at 9, and the clinic takes place Sunday-Tuesday so we can have our pick of classic routes and get the real locals experience.
Where We Meet
We meet up in Moab on Sunday afternoon and drive together to our campsite at my cabin at Indian Creek, where everyone can pitch tents and get settled in. Dinner, beer and a campfire are provided for you that night so we can relax, get to know each other and have a peaceful night sleep before heading to the Creek the next morning! Meals are all vegan (with the exception of local eggs as an option at breakfasts).
What to Expect
On Monday morning, breakfast and coffee are ready for you at the campsite, and also lunch to take to the crag. You’ll receive a pair of Evolv crack climbing shoes (that you get to keep), tape, a gear sling (and a few other surprises!) and unlimited access to cams, ropes and a full day of crack climbing fun and instruction from me and fellow desert locals, Lisa Hathaway, Andrew Bisharat (Evening Sends) and Chris Kalous (Enormocast). You’ll also get professional photography of everything we do at the clinic, as well as photos of yourself climbing (so please make sure you bring some bright shirts for climbing!).
On day one, we cover taping and the elements of crack specific climbing techniques on the sandstone splitters.
That evening we’ll head back to camp where dinner is waiting for us, as well as beer, a campfire and musical entertainment from our guides.
Tuesday morning, a full breakfast is provided and lunch for the crag, and it’s up to the cliffs again. We start with a group clinic about cam placements and racking techniques. Through the day you will move between routes in order to practice leading and have your placements evaluated, learn different crack sizes, and get mileage on longer and harder routes. Photographer Chris Hunter will be stationed at the anchors of some of these routes to take professional quality photos of you from above. In the afternoon, we get together again as a group to discuss the pros and cons of different anchor building options and efficiency tactics for multi-pitch climbing, and then break into 3 groups to practice these techniques with personal supervision from me, Chris, Andrew and Lisa.
Everyone will receive a link with high-res, downloadable versions of Chris Hunter’s photos to keep and share on Facebook, Instagram, personal albums, company slide shows or Christmas cards 🙂
If you are comfortable climbing 5.9 to 5.11, you will have a great time with us at the Creek.
Frequently Asked Questions
I climb 5.9, will I be able to take the clinic?
Yes, if you can toprope 5.9 to 5.11, you will be able to climb, learn and improve over the weekend. Most participants are comfortable toproping 5.10 or 5.11, and have led 5.9 or 5.10 either in the gym, sport climbing or on cracks. We use moderate routes for teaching things like jamming, foot techniques and practice leading, and we also put ropes on harder routes for people to push it and get well pumped by the end of the weekend.
Do I need a rack?
You only need a harness and a chalkbag: you receive a pair of Evolv climbing shoes, sized larger for cracks, to keep. We provide all ropes, gear, tape and rope gunning and all the food, coffee and beer you’ll need.
What will we learn at the clinic?
One the first day, we start with taping. We spend the rest of the day focusing on hand jamming and foot jamming, and practicing these on some classic pitches, climbing on toprope to get comfortable with the techniques and the area. On day 2, we move into gear. We talk about cams, correct placements, racking methods and leading tips. Everyone gets to practice leading by climbing pitches as a leader, with a toprope above for safety and nerve-calming 😉 After the mock lead, Lisa, Chris, Mary or I will climb the route to inspect the cam placements and evaluate them for you. In the second half of day 2, people can continue to work on leading and also move between different, harder/longer crack routes that we have set up with topropes, to get more experience with the techniques learned and to get pumped out. We will also have a final clinic at the end of day two about multi-pitch efficiency techniques and anchor building.
Do we get to keep the professional photos of ourselves?
Chris Hunter shoots photos throughout the 2 days, of everyone at the crags, and also on ropes from above. After the clinic, he uploads all the images and sends everyone the link so you can download the high-res versions of your shots and everyone else’s.
What happens if it rains during the scheduled dates?
We ask all registrants to plan 2 extra days in Moab, the Wednesday and Thursday after the clinic, and the staff has scheduled availability for those dates as well. If the weather forecast is looking like solid rain for the scheduled dates the week before the clinic, we will contact everyone to confirm that we can push the clinic forward by 1 day or 2, depending on how the forecast looks. Usually in Moab it only rains for 1-2 days at a time, and this tactic gives us the best chance of beating the weather. So far, we have only had to push the clinic once, and the result was perfect weather for us.